Propagation of long wave on sloping beach.
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Long Wave Flow Interaction with a Single Square Structure on a Sloping Beach
In the context of dam breaks, tsunami, and flash floods, it is paramount to quantify the time-history of forces by the rapidly transient flow to vertical structures and the characteristics of the induced flow patterns. To resemble on-land tsunami-induced flow, a free-surface-piercing structure is exposed to long leading depression waves in a tsunami flume where long waves run up and down a 1:40...
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= ∂f ∂t2 for x > 0, in which Y (x, t) denotes an unknown variable, f (x, t) a prescribed forcing function and b a positive constant. This equation has been used to describe landslidegenerated tsunamis and also long waves induced by moving atmospheric pressure distributions. We discuss particular and general solutions. We then compare our results with numerical solutions of the same equation and...
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Standing on a gently sloping straight beach, it is a matter of observation that various waveforms propagate on the surface of the sea. Among these we find edge waves water waves that progress along the shoreline. These waves, often difficult to visualize (this has, probably, prevented the regarding of this waveform as important for a long time), are coastal trapped, i.e. their amplitude is maxi...
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Shallow water waves are governed by a pair of non-linear partial differential equations. We transfer the associated homogeneous and non-homogeneous systems, (corresponding to constant and sloping depth, respectively), to the hodograph plane where we find all the non-simple wave solutions and construct infinitely many polynomial conservation laws. We also establish correspondence between conserv...
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Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. I...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: PROCEEDINGS OF COASTAL ENGINEERING, JSCE
سال: 1989
ISSN: 0916-7897,1884-8222
DOI: 10.2208/proce1989.36.99